Day 25 August 6, 2009
We got into central Lima in the early afternoon, and during our stay in Lima this time, we had a host who was kind enough to take us in for a few days. We gave Victor, who was recommended to us from Brittany and Dave, a call when we got in and he said he wasn’t going to be off of work until 5pm, but we were welcome to go over to his house and his grandmother would let us in.
After bartering with the taxi for a while about how much it was going to cost us to go out to Victors house in Callao/Bellavista, we finally agreed on s/20 and headed to the far north edge of Lima. Getting to Victors house was a slight adventure since our taxi driver had no idea where the district we were looking for even was, so we stopped to ask several people along the way, but we eventually made it. The neighborhood was quiet and we were greeted by Victors brother Carlos, his grandmother, and their abnormally large collie Bufalo. As we walked into the house the fact that the house just opens up into the sky amazed me. I didn’t realize that Lima gets so little rain that people build their houses in such a way that allows the elements into their house openly. Victors mother had designed the house herself, and I have to say she did a nice job. The house had close to 8 bedrooms and an equal number of bathrooms with the whole bottom floor being an open living and kitchen area, and the rooftop had a grill and laundry area.
We felt a little bit awkward being at the house although without Victor being there, so Kristine and I decided we would walk around the neighborhood to see what we could find, and we just happened to see a sign near the highway for a mall. We headed over to see what the malls in Lima were like, and I really needed a new pair of jeans at this point since I had worn a hole in the crotch of mine. We walked around until we needed to head back at 5 to meet Victor, but when we got there, he had left to look for us around the neighborhood. He didn’t think we would have made it all the way to the mall, and was surprised we had even found it, but that’s just how we roll…
We told Victor we needed to meet someone in the morning and asked him to show us a good meeting place between his place and San Isidro. He told us we could meet at Plaza San Miguel which is a shopping center, and so we went over there not really knowing what to expect, and when we arrived we were presented with a very modern, outdoor mall. We told our friend Jorge to meet us here in the morning, and we walked around for a while, before we decided to go see GI Joe since it had just come out today.
Day 26 August 7, 2009
We headed out the door to Plaza San Miguel to meet up with Jorge and he brought his friend Sam. We had contacted Jorge when we found his name tied to some talks about getting coworking started in Lima, and we started talking to him over twitter and Facebook before we arrived in Lima. I’m really glad we got the chance to meet with Jorge, because we had a great time hanging out and talking about Lima for the rest of the day. Sam and he are in business together doing some consulting work, and they had been mulling over the idea to get the space started for some time, so I immediately realized they just needed a little push in the right direction, so I told them I would give them as much help as I could with my experience with coworking.
We all decided to go grab some lunch, but Sam unfortunatley had to bow out, but not before he dropped us all of in Miraflores so we could walk around the area. I hadn’t been to Miraflores yet aside from going to Larcomar for the club we went to when we first came and stayed in Barranco. I was impressed with the area, and it reminded me more of a lively downtown area, than central Lima did. After walking around a while we saw a sign for all you can eat sushi and had been dying to try some Peruvian sushi. Jorge suggested a better and cheaper place near his house in San Isidro so we hopped in a taxi and headed over to Oceanika where I gorged myself on rice and fish. Sushi is certainly not the same here though, so don’t get any ideas and think that I got spoiled. I was disappointed that the tempura was not really crunchy, but had more of a bread texture, and the concept of spicy was somewhat ignored, but for the price we paid I can’t complain too much.
Just outside the restaurant is the Peru version of the Pentagon, so we walked by and while they wouldn’t let us in the gate, there was a set of exercise machines outside we were free to use. It was a little strange watching people walk up and use an adults version of a jungle gym. I tried out the machine that makes you look like you are humping the air… I looked as ridiculous as the image in your head right now.
Kristine and I needed to go meet our friend from the first of the trip, Julius Cesar, so Jorge said he’d tag along since he hadn’t been to Central Lima in several months if not even a year. When he said how long it had been since he was there, I realized how much the action is NOT in central Lima. Its a great place to go look around, but it is not where the action in the business world is happening.
We went over to BH restaurant in the Plaza and talked with Julius over our cups of coffee, and told him we wanted him to come out with us later and we would be back for him after he got off of work. In the meantime we headed over to the computer markets to see if we could get Kristine’s iPhone screen fixed. There were two huge warehouses full of hardware, software, gadgets, and of course ink cartridges, but no one could fix her cracked screen.
I decided to get a haircut on the way back to meet Julius. I figured it was probably time, considering my hair had been growing for almost three months and if I waited to get back to San Francisco it was going to cost me twenty times what it would cost here. It is however, a good thing I had Jorge with me, because explaining how you want your haircut is more technical than you might imagine.
We met back up with Julius and we all headed back to Miraflores where we walked around for a while, and I actually spotted a good house that would work for the Lima Coworking space. I told Jorge to give them a call in the morning and see what they said about it. The three of us originally went to go see a movie, but figured we would go out instead, so we walked down Pizza Row which reminded me way too much of Aguas Calientes, but we were offered free drinks if we ordered a pizza at one of the places so we jumped in and ate real quick and headed out to one of the nearby clubs.
The club was fairly empty when we arrived, but after several pitchers of beer it didn’t matter and as people started to pour in and dance, we found ourselves on the dance floor thanks to Julius Cesar being sneaky and wrangling up several women to dance. All in all it was a great night and i’m glad we were able to get Julius to come out with us. We retired back to the house around 3am.
Day 27 August 8, 2009
We slept in a little bit because of the late night, but we didn’t sleep long because Victor and Jorge (his roommate) were going to take us over to the Black Market to see if anyone there could take care of her cracked screen on her phone. While we were there Victor spotted someone selling Chirimoya and picked one up and shared it with us, and I must say I have found my new favorite fruit. It has this semi-sweet taste with an almost yogurt texture once it is in your mouth. Just delicious.
We didnt find anyone who could fix the screen, and Victor remembered that his favorite soccer team was playing today, so we headed over to the stadium and grabbed some seats and watched his team destroy their opponents. It wasnt even fair how lopsided this game was being played. I think the other team may have gotten two shots on goal the entire match.
After the game Victor took us over to a little stand that served fruit salads that he said was good. I was happy to be eating something for dinner other than chicken and rice for a change, but I wasn’t sure that fruit was going to be enough to hold me over. When we got to the stand it was nothing more than a little square cart with a roof on it, but they had many different types of fruit. Victor told her to make us three fruit salads with chirimoya. The two women disappeared to the other side of the cart for about 5 minutes and came back around with these huge, and I mean huge containers of fruit that were covered in yogurt and honey. I was shocked, and even more shocked when I found out that the 11 different fruits I was about to eat was only costing me s/4. I made sure to eat everything but the chirimoya first so I could finish off mine with my newly experience favorite fruit. I’m not sure Kristine actually finished hers, but I had nothing left as we sat and watched a group of people playing soccer on an artificial field.
We walked around and went to an internet cafe for a while before Victor and I headed off to a Couchsurfing meeting, and Kristine went home to sleep because she was tired. Lima has couchsurfing meetings quite often it seems, and Victor was a big part of that community so we went over to the party to listen to people talk about their trips, and show pictures of where they had been recently. It was all very laid back and fun, but soon after the party everyone decided that going out in Miraflores was a good idea, so we headed over to one of the Salsa clubs called Fiesta. When I saw the sign I immediately thought of Roy from Huacachina and his constant usage of the phrase “donde esta fiesta?” Even more interesting about this club is that it was inside of a very large casino in the area that had live shows and bands to keep everyone entertained. I kept walking around watching people pay terrible blackjack, so terrible in fact that I wanted to sit down and play because I had a better chance of winning with my eyes closed than they did playing the stupid moves they were playing. Victor and I decided to bow out around 4am, because we had a soccer game to play in the morning.
Day 28 August 9, 2009
We woke up to breakfast being made for us downstairs, but I could tell Victor and Jorge were in a hurry to get out to the soccer match, so we hurried up breakfast and walked over to the concrete soccer field that they play on every Sunday. We were one man short of 3 full teams so I ended up playing forward for one team and goalie for another team. These guys don’t joke around however, and I found myself in the middle of a game in which I didn’t understand what people were saying that reminded me of when I was younger playing with the ranch workers every week, but that was when I was actually practicing soccer. Here I was out of my league, confused, and honestly, I just had fun with it. I didn’t much care when they would kick the ball from three feet away as hard as they could, because honestly the most that could happen is I got to visit the hospital and come home with a wonderful story of getting a concussion from a soccer ball.
We headed back after about two hours of playing, and the one thing I had forgotten about when you play sports is that you need to drink water, but here you can’t drink the water out of the fountains, so I bought a two liter bottle of water a downed it before I ever got back to the house. Victors mom and grandmother were preparing lunch so Kristine and I walked to the market and bought a huge bouquet of flowers for s/25 for Victors mother and grandmother for being kind enough to let us stay with them and treating us like family. I wish it were possible to buy flowers like that in the states, because I’d likely have a very happy girlfriend swimming in flowers.
The whole family sat down for lunch and it was an incredible meal. This is a Sunday occurrence at Victors house and I’m glad we just happened to be in on a Sunday, because having a good home cooked meal is always a good time.
Kristine and I wanted to meet with Jorge one last time before we headed out of town, so we gave him a call and told him we were going to meet him near his house. He met us up and we dropped by the supermarket to pick up a few quick things to bring home with us and then we walked over to Jorge’s house. I spent the next three hours going over coworking plans for the Lima space with Jorge, while Kristine talked movie talk with one of Jorge’s friends who used to live in Los Angeles. I gave him and idea on how to talk the owner of the space we had found two days earlier down on the rent price, and gave him some pointers on different ways to manage the space based on various things that have been working for places like Citizen Space, Creative Space, Conjunctured, and other spaces that I’ve visited.
When we got back to the house, the three brothers who were going to be couchsurfing with victor the next two nights had arrived and I spent an hour or so giving them some tips on things to watch out for, and things they should go see while they are in Peru. Obviously the first thing I told them was to not fall asleep on the buses, and keep your bag at your feet. We all went to grab some burgers down the road because they had just gotten in and were hungry and Kristine and I needed to eat something before we headed off for our flight.
Day 29 August 10, 2009
We headed to the Airport around 1am so that Victor could get home at a decent hour and get to bed so he could make it to work in the morning, and that about sums it up…
Go to Peru. Keep your bags chained to you…